A few Hints and Tips mostly from the Ford ST Owners Club forums relating to Mondeo ST220′s. Some will also apply to Focus ST (including ST170′s) and Fiesta ST150′s etc.
Sorry but I no longer own an ST220 so please do not contact me about this car (do not know much about them anyway!). I will leave this page here just in case it helps someone with this classic car that served me very well for about 8 years. If you need help do contact one of the club sites - most allow you to join for free. Good luck.
- Air Con
- Air Temp display
- Alloy Wheels
- Auto Lock
- Auto Mirror Tilt (separate page)
- CD Player 6006
- Digital Dash Display
- Engine problems
- Engine running rough
- Fuel pump
- Goodyear - Eagle F1 GSD3
- Idle speed control valve
- Key Programming
- Modding an ST220
- MP3 Player Input (ST220 only)
- Power loss at Low Revs
- Rear bumper
- Radio/Phone kit
- Radio Frequency Programming
- Rear seatbelt jammed
- Remote key
- Spark Plugs
- Suspension (front)
- Turn Off Seatbelt Reminder
- Tyres and pressures
- Two Stage Unlocking
- Washer Jets
- Wet mats
- Which Petrol
- Wind noise
- Xenon Lights
17-12-07 10:36 PM - Post#1366870
Hi can anyone help with how to change the outside air temperature display from farenheit to centigrade on a mk3, I am sure I have seen this somewhere but bu66ered if I can find it now.
17-12-07 10:41 PM - Post#1366873
push the button next to the display when its on the temp setting?
tis in the manual!
17-12-07 10:48 PM - Post#1366876
Hmmm... how stupid do I feel now?
Thanks for the fast reply, I can now understand how cold it is outside.
Just had a bad experience at Fords,to such an extent they will never see my car again.They tried to rip me off for a quoted £495 for a repair I fixed myself for £16.To cut a long story short,they told me I needed a NEW NSR caliper and 2 H/BRAKE CABLES when all Ineeded was a new h/brake cable (which was purely precautionary) For this diagnosis I was also charged £30 which after a few very strong letters I have had refunded.
Posted February 01, 2008 08:44
Hate to say this but Mk 3 mondys are known to have problems with not only handbrake cables but also calipers. It′s generally known that it is after having a set of rear pads fitted to the vehicle, sometimes the tech is a bit too forceful with tools and can twist and damage the seal in the caliper. Or not having brake fluid change when it is due. There are a number of reasons, the 2 mentioned being the most common ones.
I work for a Ford Dealership and have a 220 myself and can honestly say i would not have any work carried out on my car anywhere else.
Personally, if i was you i would take it to another ford dealer for a second opinion.
Did they not offer to show you the damaged/ceased caliper?
Hi all. I am thinking of adding the following to my 05 ST220: PiperX VIS, Mongoose exhaust (mainly cos there′s a dealer near me) and bluefin. Does this seem like a sensible combination? What kind of bhp increase/changes to mpg would I expect? Also are there implications for emissions/MOT?? Cheers for any advice guys....
Posted January 22, 2008 10:47
Pipercross VIS is the best for the car as it relocates the cone. Mongoose exhausts are also good but I believe Blueflame Exhausts are the same but cheaper.
Bluefin is a generic map and to get the best out of your car a Dreamscience or ChippedUK live map would be better as they are for your car with your mods.
Posted January 22, 2008 12:19
on my old 220 (04 reg) i had a Janspeed cat back, k and n cone filter and bluefin, the last rolling road it made 259 bhp. Felt the car a lot more responsive, if you did′t drive it silly the mpg was better and if you gave it some stick didn′t seem any worse mpg than un-modded.
Posted January 22, 2008 18:20
wow thats some good figures there for just those mods.
Posted January 22, 2008 19:06
Did all those things to my ST220, a lot more responsive now.
I have had no problems with the emissions during an MOT.
Not sure how the fuel consumption compares to normal taking into account mine is a 2003 model with 5 speed gearbox, but around town I get just over 25 MPG and on a run around 32 MPG. The mods really help liven up the engine though, I think well worth the expense.
Hope this helps
I′ve been getting some wind noise around the drivers door area, could be towards the rear door also, it only happens at about 60mph onwards, I′ve changed both the door window seals the ones that just push in, still have the problem. any ideas guys before I attack my car with an hammer. lol.
Posted December 01, 2007 15:08
You may find that the rear quarter glass is the problem here. I get the same thing on my 220.
If you open the rear door and push from the inside out the rear quarter glass that it moves out a little. It seems that they are not not sealed or bonded. I′m waiting to get my car into work so that I can seal them to see if this cures it.
Posted December 01, 2007 15:17
cheers, let me know how you get on Smile
Posted December 01, 2007 15:20
In the mean time turn the radio up lol Big Grin
Posted December 01, 2007 18:57
Ive noticed a bit of wind noise from around the front drivers door area recently too Roll Eyes
I′ll have a look at the back window and rear quarter glass to see if anythings obviously out of place there!!
Was gona look at changing the seals....but might not bother now Smile
Posted December 02, 2007 10:45
try changing the rubber weather strips that run along the bottom sills. they perish after a couple of years. have a look at yours, the part number is 1230006. this may cure your problem
Posted December 02, 2007 12:48
Hi, ye i changed them front and rear, the wind is still there Confused
Posted December 27, 2007 14:30
ive just sorted the wind noise out 100% im very happy lol. what the problem was is a bad design, its the top of the doors, the seal doesn′t go all the way up, their is a hollow void thats where the wind whistles around inside that void, ive managed to rectify the problem now, no wind noise what so ever.
Posted December 28, 2007 01:38
Is it the vertical bit of rubber tube between the top of the doors we′re looking at here??
Posted December 28, 2007 11:15
Yes it is, what i did was to take some draft excluder and stick it to the rear doors, so when both doors are closed they meet up. no wind noise
Recently brought myself an ST220, 02 plate, 46k on the clock, FSH etc Smile
All good so far except for the fact that I seem to be getting quite a bit of vibration back through the steering wheel. This is more noticeable when in the 60-90mph bracket. Only recently started happening and I′ve also noticed that the outside of my drivers side wheel is wearing faster than the rest.
I presume its the camber and not tracking that I need checking? Also any ideas what could be causing the vibrations? Does anything wear out around the 50k mark that I should be looking for?
Posted June 06, 2007 07:00
wheel balance weights can drop off and cause this
Posted June 06, 2007 08:19
Would suggest getting a four wheel alignment check done and have your wheels rebalanced as Sefton suggested.
Make sure the alignment check is a computerised version - these are the most accurate.
Posted June 06, 2007 20:49
As above really, get your 4 wheel alignment done and get the wheels balanced. With tyre wear on the outside edge it will unbalance the tyre too.
Posted June 06, 2007 22:34
Cheers for all the replies guys, shall try get a decent look at them tomorrow in the light and get it booked it to a garage soon as well.
Posted June 08, 2007 13:04
Well checked out the front drivers side wheel last night and found that the inside was all bulging. Probably not too far off from bursting/failing.
Replaced it with the spare and all is good now with 2 new Falken FK452′s being fitted next week.
Posted June 09, 2007 07:29
Ohh that was lucky then. Let us know how you get on with the Falkens, they are suppose to be really good but dont break the bank like some rip off tyre co′s
Posted June 09, 2007 10:44
Very lucky yeh
The Falkens are going on next thursday, £152 for a front pair with everything included. Couldn′t find anything cheaper nearby.
Last Friday started well with me putting a few miles on the ST220. When I went to leave work later in the day she wouldn′t start. Starter motor turned her over but nothing else. I called out the RAC who put their lap top on the EEC port but no faults were recorded. Checked the fuel cutoff but that hadn′t tripped. Eventually ended up being towed to the local Ford garage. What a terrible weekend no car. When Ford contacted me on the Monday I was told the fuel pump wasn′t working. Well a few hundred pounds later, new fuel pump fitted and the beast is back on the road. Anyone know if this is a common fault with the Mondeo fuel pump?
Posted October 04, 2007 06:30
Eak, first I have heard but then I have not owned a ST220.
Look on the bright side, it could have been alot more expensive than that if Ford wanted it to be.
At least you have it back now and fingers crossed it wont happen again.
Posted October 04, 2007 08:53
Fuel pump on a 2003 car?????? That′s disgusting! It shouldn′t give up at that age No No No
Posted October 04, 2007 10:19
Well I have had a fuel pump fail on mine. When the car was in Ford being diagnosed they told me it′s not un-common for a fuel pump to fail in a ST220.
Lucky enough I did it myself so cut the cost down.
Posted October 04, 2007 13:03
I find that really bad, if Fords know it to be a common fault they should do something about it
Posted October 05, 2007 00:29
Hi it must be a common problem my 220 Est done exactly the same thing its a 2003 model and had 52000 mls done when it packed up, no warning parked it the night before came out next morn no go just spin over
Posted March 28, 2007 16:55
i have fixed by myself part was £49 from ford took 5 minutes to fit and she is running superbly again and ford wanted £150 to do this.
Posted March 29, 2007 10:32
Funilly enough I just changed mine too as that what was causing the moosing sound on my ST220.
If for any reason you are caught short, a 2 litre Mondeo idle control valve will fit and run the car until you can get a new 1.
I know as I did do it. You will need to file a little off the 2 litre one as it won′t sit flush.
Engine problemsPosted April 01, 2007 20:38
Hi,new to this site but i am trying to solve a little problem i have with my 220.It has started idling eratically and struggles to tick over at idle and sometimes stalls.The engine management light has also come on and starts flashing after several minutes,and if you leave the car ticking over the light stays on.I have also noticed that it seems to stick at over 2000 rpm when i have been on the motorway,i have taken the idle valve off today and given it a good clean but it has not made any difference. i am hoping you will be able to tell that this is what your car did. Any help and advice you can give me will be greatly appreciated.
Posted April 01, 2007 22:21
I hope you can help me. My 220 does not want to idle at a constant 900rpm, and is either below or creeps up to 1200rpm. Also after being on the motorway and then coming off and putting the clutch in the engine seems to hang around the 3000rpm mark and slowlycomes down slightly.Turning the ignition off and restarting seems to solve the high revs problem but it still struggles to idle. I have removed the idle control valve today which was very dirty!! I cleaned it and refitted it, but it was just the same. It also has the engine management light on and if the car is left idling for a couple of minutes the light stays on constantly untill you turn the ignition off.Any advice you can give will be most greatfully welcome.
Posted April 01, 2007 23:07
Take the Idle control valve off and leave it plugged in. Get someone to turn the ignition on. If the valve moves then all is ok. If it doesn′t then replace it. It′s oly £49 pounds and the part number is 4383663. No matter how many times you try and clean it yu will not get it to work if it′s duff.
You will also need to get the fault codes reset.
If it is working ok then I don′t know what it is!
Posted April 01, 2007 23:22
Cheers, let you know how i get on 2moz. All the best
Posted April 02, 2007 04:14
sorry only just seen post but do what rich says and it only 10 min job to do yourself
Posted April 02, 2007 16:24
Just fitted a valve off an st170. Same ports just needed the casing filing a little. It ran terribly at first then it settled down. Can anyone tell me if you had to disconnect the battery and try and reset the memory. Bloke at Remoco in stockport advised me on a reset procedure to do. 4 x electrical plugs off, position sensor, idle valve, flow meter and lamba. Does this sound right??????
Very good parts place if anyone is interested. www.ford-spares.com
Posted April 02, 2007 16:30
how bad was ur iscv try cleaning it out and reusing it dave said engine cleaner would do the trick but make sure it thoughly dry
Posted April 02, 2007 17:13
iscv was filthy, thoroughly cleaned but did as you said and valve is not funtioning, fitted a similar valve off an st170, i have carried out the reset but the car will not idle now, getting a bit ****** off at mo. Just wondering if i need to get the like for like iscv from ford? Another 50 quid!!! Thats if i dont just give it to someone who can diagnose the fault, any more advice may be useful.
Posted April 02, 2007 17:50
ford parts will have it next day usually £50 quid and do it yourself is better then them fitting it
Posted April 02, 2007 18:31
I temporaily used a ISCV off a Mondeo 2 litre petrol and it ran good.
If your valve is not opening/closing then it′s FUBAR!
The other way is find somone with a Snap on diagnostic and it should show up the fault!
Posted April 03, 2007 12:14
Just booked her in at the quacks 2moz and will be put on the diagnostic comp.Hopfully i will have some news for you all 2moz. Just to let you know that the st170 idle valve has made a difference and putting BP Ultimate has made the miles to go change dramatically. Thanks for trying to help.
Posted April 05, 2007 16:37
Had the car on the diagnostic, bad news all round. Idle valve was found to be working and i was told by the technician that the valve does move when the ignition is switch on, it works further down the line. Very confused about the car at moment. Still running ok at speed but struggles to settle at idle and seems to pick up revs up to 3000 on its own "REALLY WEIRD". Car is going back to the garage where i bought it on Tuesday and back on another Diagnostic machine.
Has anybody had to change Throttle position sensor or the airflow sensor??? If so what faults did you have???
Any further help would be great.
Posted April 20, 2007 14:19
Finally found the problem on the st. Coil pack found to be knackered, should be back on the road on Monday. Has any body had coil problem??? if so let me know what your symptons were.
Posted April 22, 2007 08:55
hi hows urs been since coil pack was replaced
Posted April 22, 2007 10:12
Hopefully i will get the beast back tommorrow. Sounds like it has been running on only 4 cylinders, so hopefully i will be able to tell the difference!!! coil packs are £59 from Ford. I will let you know tommorrow what has happened. It has only taken 3 diagnostic machines to find the problem!! Apparently it is a Snap-on machine that has found the problem.
Posted April 23, 2007 18:14
Crazyand theres more!! coil pack changed today, is alot better so i have been told by the mechanic, but it is still idling eratically, 2000rpm then reduces down to normal.He says he is going to change the idle control valve tommorrow!!!!!! I will let you all know the outcome.
Posted April 23, 2007 18:18
yes ive asked my garage to clear ecu and reset it and install me upgrade to see if that sorts it out
Posted April 25, 2007 08:58
coil pack changed, a little better!!! idle control valve changed, a little better!!! now looking at changing lambda sensors, mechanic is very frustrated with this car of mine. May have to go into Fords, but he is trying his best by all accounts!!!!
Let you know soon. ttfn
Posted April 25, 2007 15:30
cheers bud keep me informed mines having ecu reset tomorrow and up date on software so i will keep u informed aswell
Posted May 08, 2007 20:24
Me again, Just to let you all know the car is still in the garage and the mechanic has found that the rear bank timing chain tensioner is knackered has caused the timing chain to jump sprockets. Hopefully i should have it back on Friday.I will keep you all posted.
ttfn. Really missing it!!!
Posted May 16, 2007 15:59
fingers crossed i may have found the problem pipe mentioned in the throttle hang problem might be the culprit on inspection last night found it had been rubbing on servo pipe and nearly worn right through ford have ordered me new version of these which gives the 2 pipes clearance which is modification brought in on the 54 plate cars fingers crossed hope this sorts her out
Just ran a diagnostic on the St and i′ve the following codes come up , along with nasty idle and excessive fuel use (i think)
They are as follows...
Stored Emmission DTC′s
P0171 - Fuel Trim too Rich (Bank 1)
P0174 - Fuel Trim too lean (Bank 2)
P1131 - Lack of HO2S Switch - sensor indicates lean
Pending Emmission Related DTC′s
P1130 - Lack of HO2S Switch - Adaptive fuel at limit
P1150 - Lack of HO2S21 Switch - Adpative fuel at limit
P1151 - Lack of HO2S1 Switch - Sensor indicates lean
Also, it says Fuel system fault, Open loop
now im thinking that the HEGO sensors are knackered, that would explain the excessive fuel and the lean and rich running..
Has anyone else had this issue?
OH.. and just to bring a smile to everyone, i took these codes into a Dealer who told me that they were not codes that Ford use.. Funny that seeing as i′ve just confirmed they are. Same dealer tried to sell me a distributor cap for a 2001 V6 the other day...
Posted October 29, 2006 21:32
Update on this...
Had the car on WDS, cost me £70...
Same error codes - diagnosis and action required... Replace all the Hego sensors and then try again - cost £400 or there abouts..
Anyway, passing another Ford Dealer i popped in as i think i have a lazy tappet and got one of the techincians to have a look at which point he says "you have a major air leak somewhere", has another poke and the rubber hose from the PCV to the UIM is split 6 inches along its length...
No part number available so i made up a temp replacement from a length of old aircon pipe work, woven fabric type as this wont collapse like the origonal part..
Deleted all the DTC′s, ran her for 2 days and tried again.. guess what, no idle problems, no DTC′s and no need to part with £400 for parts i dont need...
Posted December 19, 2006 11:44
HI MAY BE A BIT LATE TO HELP BUT SEEN 3.0LTR ST220 WITH PERISHED BREATHER HOSE CAUSING HEGO CODES AND HIGH FUEL CONSUMPTION STALLING ETC .AT BACK UNDER INLET MANIFOLD DO NOT GET TO INVOLVED WITH HEGOS TILL BASICS CHECKED
if your like me and your rear centre seatbelt jammed tight and it would fail the MOT, dont worry you dont need a new seatbelt mechanism (£130 from ford)
this refers to the type of seatbelt which comes from the top of the middle of the back seat.
the fix is:
on the bit at the bottom where it connects near the seatbase, there is a small hole in there. shove a spike or tweezers in there and it will unplug the seatbelt giving you a load of slack. then tilt the seat-back forward and you should be able to start reeling it out. reel it out as far as it will go and keep it out there, then slam the seat-back closed. now plug it back in the bottom bit (which you undid with the spike) still keeping it at full stretch and now it should work fine.
Posted March 01, 2004 21:19
Or just slam the back seat back and this will cure the problem as well.......
Posted March 01, 2004 21:36
didnt on mine and a few others i know about! hence the how to
Morning all have a slight problem with my car leaking around the front/rear passenger side of the door′s. The water seems to leak at the bottom of the door over the rubber door seal. Did Ford do a recall on the rubber door seals???.my friend has a st220 and he said there was a recall on them. Any help/ideas would be gratefully recieved many thanks mike.
Posted October 23, 2007 10:48
Mike I`ve just done a search on "water leak" and found that the membrane behind the door trim appears to be the issue.
Between the door trim and actual door is a clear plastic membrane which seals the door inner frame.
As youve only just bought the car I would suggest taking it back to Essex Ford and asking themm to rectify the fault - perhaps you may even like to suggest what the problem is to save them (and you) time!
Posted October 23, 2007 11:41
Great thanks for the info and help bob..The car will be going back to them some time this week they have got a full list of jobs that need doing on the car..i think the starter motor is playing up now.
and a couple of months later
Posted December 09, 2007 14:40
Can anyone help ?
Doing the vacuming in my car this afternoon, I realised both my rear mats were wet. I′ve heard before somewhere that this may be a common problem, has anyone has this problem before and if so whats the cause ? and how do I fix it?
Posted December 09, 2007 17:35
probably to do with door seals or the membrane in the door itself
Posted December 10, 2007 20:28
Had similar problem with my car, when I released the door card I found the membrane had come unstuck about a 1/4" which was enough to allow loads of water to get in. Restuck it with RTV which is what plumbers use for sealing pipe joints and had no more problems. Hope this helps a little.
Posted December 10, 2007 21:19
cheers for that, but i still can′t see how water would get in through the membrane, surley it′s got to get into the door area first.
Posted December 12, 2007 20:16
It gets into the door through the seal on the outside of the window glass which is not 100% water resistant.It then flows down through the door between the skin and internal membrane and out through the drain holes in the bottom of the door.Unfortunately this is a querk that all cars have. Always make sure the drain holes in the bottom of the door are clear and not gunged up so the water can drain away and not sit in the door. Thats why you will find that any door speakers fitted have a water shield around them to protect them from the water passing through the door. Hope this helps explain.
Posted December 12, 2007 21:35
Cheers Tim, that has helped lots, ive had the door cards off and the was a 2" area were the membraine had come off, reheated the black sticky stuff and added some silicone on re′sealed both sides. hope this has sorted it now, .....
I own a 55 ST220 estate in Performance Blue, I′ve had it from 6 months old, it′s now done 52,000 miles, still looking good, engine is strong but the steering seems to have taken a turn for the worse. There feels to be a looseness in the front end, a lack of connection, it can be felt on particularly rough roads and tramlining seems to be getting worse. The car has been into 2 ford garages and a local mechanic who was confident he would find the fault but to no avail. The bushes have been inspected (visually) tracking checked, tyre pressures checked and there are new Good Years on the front. I can′t be the only ST owner to have encountered this, what can be wrong? Is it the shock absorbers? Has anyone seen the wrangling with the points score for the RS Focus in Evo? Does it handle well or not? Same problem? My ST was pukka now it′s not. Anyone out there got a suggestion?
Posted March 04, 2008 21:59
Strange you should mention this just been reading on another forum that the Mk3`s appear to have an issue with the rack.
Apparently the joint between the rack and columm becomes dry and fails - I believe the remedy is a new rack.
Been back to Fords reference the mode switch. They now tell me, because my car was fitted out with a basic phone kit the mode function has been changed to Answer Mode. So i jumped into my car, put the phone in the cradle and rang the phone using my other mobile. Pressed the mode switch and hey presto, it answered the phone.
the radio is in full working order. the cd is currently not working and when attempting to load a cd, the cd player displays CD ERROR E3. i have taking this cd player to a audio shop and they explained the problem to me. there is a small plastic cog inside that is damaged and needs replacing. this is stopping the cd′s from being loaded. i have been told that the cog costs pence and you would just need to pay fitting costs. the cog will only take around 20 mins to fit.
Has anyone else had a problem with the Sony 6CD Head unit not ejecting CD′s
Mine has 6 disks in it, If I press load it says all CD′s full.
They all play fine.
If I press eject it says no CD No matter which disk is selected.
If I hold eject to eject all CD′s it says no CD.
I′ve had my car for two months now and the above has happened twice now, I have a set of removal tools and on both occassions have had to remove the unit in order to disconnect the power supply to reset it, Although it does sort out the apparent loss of the unit′s marbles it is a right pain in the ar*e having to do it!
the unit will offen play up if you turn your ignition on and off. as i found when my son was playing whilst i was washing the car.
Take it in to the dealer and ask for the latest program update for it.
Mine has been perfect since they reprogrammed it.
Sure enough it′s a known fault.
They′ve reprogrammed it and all is well, so far Smile
Ford told me to only ever put 5 CD′s in, if you put 6 in the unit has problems. They said it was something to do with the amount of space inside?? Why call it a 6 CD Unit then ??????
Ford told me they get no end of them in with a jammed CD, 5 in the loading tray and one in the player mechanism. They also said beware of CD′s you have recorded yourself as they are generally thicker. Rather than using the CD player, load up all your songs onto a MP3 Player and plug it into the Aux socket in the glovebox then select AUX on the unit. Works fine and has many more songs on. The lead needed to connect to the Aux socket can be purchased at Maplins for a couple of quid.
If you only load 5 cd′s into is especially burnt cd′s when the "no cd" error comes up hit the "load" button let it go through its cycle... DO NOT LOAD ANOTHER CD. When it goes back to playing the cd hit eject and it will eject the cd all in 30 seconds and no scraped knuckles... REMEMBER ALWAYS ONLY LOAD 5 CD′s into the unit leave 1 space free or this will not work...
I was lucky, I only had 5 loaded this time & this worked a treat!!
has any body managed to get mp3 player working via aux socket in glove box on 220, i have tried to plug my mp3 player in but can not get it to work. Confused
Posted October 05, 2005 19:20
Daft question I know but have you tried pressing the aux buton on the head set when you mp3 is plugged in
Posted October 06, 2005 13:12
yes but no joy, this is why i have asked. Confused
Posted October 14, 2005 09:15
tried it in bobs car and it works, my car goes in to fords monday that will be a laugh because i dont think they know what to look for, Jester Jester
Posted October 14, 2005 21:24
They told you it was an airbag sensor or something didn′t they? laughing
Posted October 17, 2005 14:55
yes they did, got car back and all works, after they found somebody who knew what it was. very happy
Posted October 17, 2005 21:49
So with 6 CD′s and 4GB (a guess) of MP3′s you can probably drive for days now without repeating a track Speechless
Posted October 18, 2005 22:13
When you tried your MP3 player in my car Ian you had to turn the volume up a bit - is it the same in yours?
Posted October 27, 2005 11:26
yes i do but it still sounds good
Now a big jump of 2 years but a different solution
Posted December 30, 2007 19:16
I can′t get the CD/AUX button on the headunit to work so i can use my MP3 player. I′ve tried it with and without the cable attached, with and without the MP3 player on and it will not toggle over to the aux input.
Any ideas why? Is there something I′m not doing?
Posted December 30, 2007 19:19
Just checked mine...and it goes straight to ′AUX′ from playing a CD!!
Wonder if the AUX cable has come out of the back of the HU?? shrug
Seem to remember on my old Sony HU that AUX didn′t come up on the screen before I got the CD changer fitted!!
Posted December 31, 2007 01:33
The AUX function can be disabled in the menus, if you have no intention of using it. Check to see if it′s enabled - I suspect it isn′t.
Posted December 31, 2007 08:54
Interesting Mark, I had a brief scroll through the menu and it didn′t seem very indepth. I′ll have another good look through if that′s the case.
Posted December 31, 2007 09:46
Found it! If you hold the menu button, a second set of menus appear, along with the chassis number (?) and in there was the aux on/off setting. I turned it on and all is well. Smile
Posted December 31, 2007 18:03
Simple as that eh?? Nice one Big Grin
Possible on all Mk3 cars and some of the later model Mk2 cars with the 3 button remote, this method allows the drivers door to be unlocked on its own with the rest of the doors remaining locked unless the fob′s unlock button is pressed a second time. You can switch between modes at any time by following these instructions:
With both lock and unlock buttons depressed at the same time, wait until the indicator lights flash once. When complete two stage unlocking will be activated / deactivated accordingly.
PATS System II:
This system hasn′t got a red key, instead it needs already programmed keys to access programming mode.
Insert the first already programmed key into the ignition and turn to position II
Turn back to 0 and remove the key
Insert the second already programmed key into the ignition and turn to position II
Turn back to 0 and remove the key
Key programming mode is now activated and you have ten seconds to:
Insert the unprogrammed new key into the ignition and turn to position II
Turn back to 0 and remove the key
Allow 10 seconds to pass for the system to exit programming mode.
Insert the ignition key and turn from position II (Ignition) to position 0 (All off) and back four times within three seconds.
Remove the ignition key. The locking control system is now in "learn mode" for the next 20 seconds and the red warning system LED (By the clock) stays on continuously to indicate this. During the 20 seconds press one of the transmitter buttons. The remotes signal and code number is learned by the locking module and is indicated by flashing the warning system LED. Wait until learn mode times out (20 seconds) or switch the ignition back to ON.
When doing the above with my new key i had to make sure i pressed a button on each of the keys i had for remote central locking otherwise it forgets the ones you dont press
Are you aware if you hold the lock button on your remote key it will close any open windows. Or open them if you press and hold the open button.
On the same theme - in case it′s not been mentioned previously (apologies if it has) you can change the locking mechanism to unlock just the drivers door rather than all 4 by doing the following (taken from www.RS-i.net):
1. Unlock the car and then hold down the lock and unlock buttons on the remote for 4 seconds. The indicators should flash and single door unlock facility is enabled (i.e. just the drivers door opens).
2. To unlock all doors just press the open button twice.
The mechanism can be undone (i.e. so all 4 doors open) by repeating the procedure.
I use this and find it quite good.
I can′t remember if it′s in the owners manual but if you hold the open
button down on the remote as you approach the car all windows and the
sunroof open (good for getting rid of a bit of heat before getting in
on a hot summers day) - & looks a bit flash as well Big Grin. If
you hold the lock button down, all the windows will shut.
2006-03-05- how to program it in
1. Turn on the ignition but don′t start the engine
2. Lock the door by pushing in the button below the handle, and then pull the handle slightly to reopen it (Repeat this operation three times)
3. Turn off the ignition
4. Lock the door by pushing in the button below the handle, and then pull the handle slightly to reopen it (Repeat this operation three times)
5. Turn on the ignition but don′t start the engine
A beep should be heard
6. Lock the door by pushing in the button below the handle and then pull the handle slightly to reopen again
A final beep should be heard
Hey, I did it again and I got the beep !! Will have to take it out to see if it actually works. I must have read the instructions wrong, I was pushing in the lock button but using the door handle to open it. Then i tried it with just the lock button and hey presto. So if any of you others who are having trouble, just use the door lock button to do the lock and unlock part of the instructions.
HI There you guys/gals, not been on for a few weeks but try this one!
A fellow FRS owner shown me this neat little diagnostic/instrument test you can do on your dashboard. I have done it and found out that my speedo gauge is about 5 miles faster e.g. my speedo reads 50 but the digital speedo reads about 45!
I have also tried this on my Girlfriends Fiesta and it works I am sure it will work on the ST
Do the test for yourself its really easySelf Diagnostics Mode (Copied from http://www.fordst170.co.uk/useful.php as it is a lot more detailed than the original posters info)
The Self Diagnostics Mode gives you in-depth information about your engine and the actual numbers in digital. To use it, follow the steps:
- Insert Key but do not turn it on
- Press and hold the Trip Meter Reset Button
- While holding the reset button, start your car and continue holding the button
- Within 10 seconds, the display should change to "test" in LCD font and the needles will do a full sweeping. Release the Button
Pressing the button will now cycle through some 17 different modes
- 1.Shows a Gauge Sweep
- 2. Shows all 8′s on the LCD (LCD TEST)
- 3. Illuminates all the bulbs on the dash
- 4. Displays hexadecimal value for ROM level
- 5. Displays the hexadecimal value for EE level
- 6. Shows DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code)
- 7. Digital Speedometer - mph
- 8. Digital Speedometer - kph
- 9. N/A
- 10. Digital tachometer
- 11.Fuel volume
- 12. Engine coolant temperature
- 13. Battery voltage
- 14. ABS fail
- 15. Electronic brake distribution (EBD) failure
- 16. Illumination
- 17. Crank Sense
Number 6 for the DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code), click here to download the list of codes and the meanings with it.
(now back to the end of the original post)
after you turn your engine off the digital dial goes back to normal.
For anyone looking for new tyres in the near future, this online review says it all... I′m glad I′ve got ′em on mine thumbsup
The development of the Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD2 led to this third generation UHP offer from Goodyear offering a most exhilarating driving experience in high performance sports saloons.
Features: This tyre combines the design of a racing slick, giving superb handling, together with V-TRED anti-aquaplaning qualities.
Tyres and PressuresDecember 06, 2006 18:40
Originally posted by ******:
I have a ST220 with 225/40/18 tyres and the fronts have been looking a bit low recently so i topped them up last night. I decided to put 36 in the fronts and 34 in the rear. They were 27/28ish which would explain why they looked low.
I do think 40 is too high but i tend to think that overinflation is kind of better than under inflation because tyre pressures will only decrease over a long period of time.
Technically, there is no correct set pressure to run, as different pressures give different characteristics but i would imagine most people want to preserve the life of their tyres.
I believe it should have heated jets, although they will only work when you switch on the heated front screen.
Check that you have screen wash in your bottle as its only the jets that are heated and it may be that the water in the pipework further down is frozen.
I think the garage has now managed to sort them out, plugged car into computer and the lights can apparently be adjusted this way.
Done yesterday and no one flshed me yet, so hopefully sorted.
Even garage wasn′t aware it could be done, learn something every day!
It took 5 visits to a Ford main dealer over the course of a month, to cure an intermitent problem with my headlight. At first the diagnostic check showed a faulty igniter unit. This was replaced under warranty but would have been nearly £300 for diagnostic check + part.
2 weeks later the part was fitted, but still the headlight would
only work 50% of the time. They then said the bulb was faulty (not
warranty as only 1 year on Zenon bulbs) cost £167!! Still did not
cure the problem so they eventually decided it must be the Amplifier
unit, replaced it under warranty, and refunded me for the bulb.
Be warned, if your headlight does not work, it will be expensive!!
Ford recommend BP fuel and I have used BP Ultimate since she was new, does exactly the same as Shell Optimax or Esso Supreme, all are premium grade fuel and defo better for the performance engine
Yep, Optimax for me too. I use it in all of our cars. The high performance ones need it and the Focus and Fiesta Silvers do more mpg on it too than regular unleaded as well as being perkier. I reckon that the higher mpg more than compensates for the higher cost.
Mind you, some of the other S2000 guys are experimenting with the new Tesco 99 RON, with good results (performance-wise).
Runs better on Optimax! BP Ultimate is good too, but more expensive round my way and only 97 RON rather than 98 with the Optimax!
what the hell is a bluefin?
A hand held computer reader type machine which stores the factory settings of your ecu in it and reprograms with a upgraded version. Generally with better driveability,increased bhp and softens the limiter on some models so its not as harsh when it kicks in.
The beauty of this system is that cos its stored your original settings it can be put back to normal if required
at the moment only having it since saturday mine seems to be giving me 2/3 mpg more
i have had blufin on my 220 for a year now i would say it has added 2-3 mpg to the economy
also had mine on the rolling road at engine advantages and it made 251.9bhp with bluefin and a k&n panel filter
another 220 with the same panel filter made 238bhp straight after my run
its not a massive increase but it does me
I agree, since i`ve had Bluefin i`ve had 2/3 mpg better however i drive it
Just to add that the bluefin is also a fault code reader and also can totally imobilise your ST handy if you leave it on the drive while on holiday etc
Posted 4 May, 4:46 PM
I have an 03(53) ST220 that i purchased at the end of last year. I have noticed over the last 2 months that the lacquer (i think) is peeling off the alloy wheels. I have not kerb′d them (honest!) and they are starting to look crap. Anyone else had this problem?
Posted 4 May, 5:17 PM
This is a common problem with these wheels. Ford will replace them under warranty, although I believe they are classed as trim, hence the warranty is only 1 year.
I had to fight to get a new wheel even though my car was only 15 months old at the time.
Posted 4 May, 5:37 PM
Same happened to mine 2 years old but Ford agreed to pay half so wasnt too bad, but it is a pain n theres nothing you can do about it. You can have them re done but the price to have them diamond cut you may as well have a new wheel. You could rub them down and re lacquer them but you will loose the grooved finish.
Posted 4 May, 5:38 PM
Mine are corroding around the valve holes and at three years old, are deffo out of the "trim" warranty" Frown
Posted 4 May, 9:41 PM
Just a thought but try not to use wheel cleaner unless really needed. Hard graft I know but use a soft sponge and car shampoo regularly and lightly before the crap builds up seems to work well for me. Wink If you must use a wheel cleaner make sure it is not too aggressive ie high acid content.
Posted 5 May, 9:06 AM
I′ve always got in the habit of waxing my alloys whenever I wax the bodywork. It makes cleaning the brake dust off them so much easier (literally wipes off with a soft cloth).
I avoid hard bushing as much as I possibly can to preserve the laquer.
Posted 5 May, 9:10 AM
Is Wonder Wheels a product that could damage the alloys/laquer? It certainly removes the grime!
Posted 6 May, 4:48 PM
As above, dont use products on my wheels just shampoo and a sponge regularly and as Pete says get them off on a regular basis and wax them inside and out
Spit & Polish www.spitandpolish.co.uk do an excellent job of milling and lacquering to almost the same standard as new and they are not that expensive. I have seen several examples and I bet half the club members would not know the difference.
My air con gives out a yukky stale-like smell, so I try not to use it too often. Will it need a service, or just re-gassing etc? Any ideas roughly how much it should cost me? Cheers for any help/advice/tips etc
change your pollen filter £6...then run a/c for a while let it flush all the crap off the cooling coil...have a long drive around with A/C on full cool low fan setting then it should be ok...
And that′s it? Cheers, wasn′t expecting it to be that simple!
Just thought I′d post some info about what I′ve found out this week regarding the rear bumper on the ST and ST220 and how the brackets seem to break off and the rear bumper begins to hang.
I′m currently going through a warranty claim for mine and its been revealed that Ford have very recently (infact it was available for the first time on 16th August!) released a new design rear bumper for the car that should eliminate the problem. I′m hopefully getting the bumper fitted to my car in the next couple of weeks...
Posted March 04, 2008 21:07
Iv′e noticed my rear bumper has dropped slightly, I got it booked in on Thursday morning for Ford to have a look at, the woman I spoke to in servicing said she thinks it might be down to wear and tear! after hearing her say this I want to be prepared and know there is a TSB for this problem I just cannot find it. anyone know please help
Posted March 04, 2008 22:08
Found this on a post in the STTDci forum copy and pasted:-
I found this out today and when i took it to my Ford garage they seemed to change their mind and be really helpful with the bumper replacement.
I copied and pasted it and just printed it. Makes great ammunition:
Mondeo 2001 (10/2000) - 4/5 door ST220 / Vehicles with styling kit (ST TDCi / Titanium (limited edition)) only
Build Date: 12.12.2004-19.02.2006
Build Code: 4T-6Y
Assembly Plant: Genk
Should a customer express concern that the rear bumper cover is hanging down, the probable cause are cracks to the attachment flanges due to insufficient stiffness. To rectify this concern, a new rear bumper cover must be installed.
In some markets prior approval from warranty administration may have to be obtained for a replacement, for example by sending in a digital paint report, Revised rear bumper covers will be installed in production from 16.08.2006 (build code 6P) onwards.
14 August 2006
Before starting this procedure, make sure that...
The handbrake′s on
It′s in Park or neutral.
Ignition is off.
All doors are closed (and you′re in the car).
All the seatbelts are unbuckled.
The headlamps are off.
* Turn the ignition switch to position II. (Do not start the engine).
* Wait until the safety belt warning indicator turns off. (Approximately one to two minutes).
Note: The next 3 steps must be completed within 60 seconds or the procedure must be repeated.
* Buckle then unbuckle the safety belt three times, ending with the safety belt unbuckled.
* Turn the headlamps ON then OFF.
* Buckle then unbuckle the safety belt three times ending with the safety belt unbuckled. After this step the safety belt warning indicator will be illuminated for three seconds.
* Within seven seconds of the safety belt warning indicator turning off, buckle then unbuckle the safety belt. This will enable the belt minder if disabled or disable belt minder if enabled.
* The following sequence will confirm the belt minder is enabled:
o The safety belt warning indicator flashes four times per second for three seconds.
o Three seconds with the safety belt warning indicator off.
o The safety belt warning indicator flashes four times per second for three seconds again.
* The safety belt warning indicator flashing four times per second for three seconds provides confirmation of belt minder disabled.
* After confirmation, the deactivation/activation procedure is complete
Note: If the vehicle doesn′t have a seatbelt warning light, use the SRS (airbag) warning indicator instead
I have an 04 plate ST220 with 77k miles. It has just been serviced by my local garage. It was a ′major′ service which included all filters and plugs. However, since the service i have noticed that when accelerating from 750-1000rpm in 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th gears, sometimes the car jerks, as if it has cut out for a split second. It is otherwise fine through the rest of the rev range, the performance has not change and it idles smoothly.
However!... A few days before the service i filled up with Tesco Super unleaded (the 99 RON one). The fuel station i filled up at is one of the ones Tesco has listed as being affected by the contaminated fuel. But i didnt notice the problem before the service (i had used half of the tank). Since the service i have fueled up again, same fuel station but they didnt have any super unleaded so i had to use normal tesco unleaded (this was only a few days ago).
I have taken it back to the garage who serviced it and demonstrated the problem to the mechanic (who is also a good mate of mine). He said that it wouldnt be the spark plugs because it would be the same through the entire rev range and he also didnt think it would be the fuel for the same reasons. However, he suggested putting a full tank of V-Power in to see if the problem goes. He also suggested that it MAY be a HT lead deteriorating which he said would only become apparent after the service because he had disturbed them when replacing the plugs.
My questions are: Has anyone else experienced the same sort of symptoms with their car and if so, what did it turn out to be?
Does anyone think this is to do with the contaminated fuel? (i dont think it is because everyone reported that their car was undrivable as a result, well mine is perfectly drivable)
Posted March 13, 2007 18:58
Is that a problem below 1000 rpm or was that a typo? Mine ticks over at 900 and starts to splutter around 700 rpm. Mine will accelerate from 1000 but the power doesnt really come in till over 2500.
Posted March 13, 2007 19:23
Not a typo, i know there is hardly any power at these kind of revs but i spose what i really mean is it is not smooth delivery. I spose it isnt as low as 750rpm as i previously stated but definately at 1000 ish rpm i am experiencing the problem.
Anyway, an update, my tank is almost empty, showing 32 miles left so i am going to put a full tank of V power in tonight and see what happens as it starts to get through
Posted March 13, 2007 19:57
Hope it sorts it for you, not a problem ive ever come across but then again mine is never much below 3k. Mine does seem to struggle lower down the revs, i always use V power and give it a shot of injector cleaner every 5k just to be sure. I did try the Tesco 99 stuff once and it didnt seem as good as V power and it didnt seem to do as many miles on it.
Posted March 14, 2007 09:55
47 quids worth of V Power went in last night, will update you all towards the end of the tank.
I noticed that normal tesco unleaded seems to get me more MPG as super plus but i still get 250 miles to the tank religiously no matter how i drive it.
Posted March 23, 2007 08:55
OK, when i got to 1/4 of a tank i added another £15 of v power (because it was 105ppl!!!) It is still happening but no where near as much. I think the next thing will be to put some injector cleaner in the tank maybe. What does everyone think?
Posted March 23, 2007 09:54
Make sure the cleaner does not contain silicon as this will damage the oxygen sensors and that will cause the jerkiness.
Posted April 11, 2007 09:48
I havent used any cleaner yet but this is just an update really. For the first time, the other day it did it in 6th gear. Admittedly i was only doing about 1k revs but its not like cars should do - just have no torque and sort of stall, it is a proper judder as if there is a complete loss of power for a split second. I am contemplating giving it to Ford to take a look at because my warranty company said i need to get it diagnosed before they can tell me if it is covered or not. However, i dont want Ford charging me left right and centre for parts and labour which will not fix the problem.
Does anyone on here have any ideas as to what the problem could be? Also, do dealerships normally charge for diagnosis?
Posted April 11, 2007 10:52
ford do charge i was charged 55 quid on diagnostics machine
Posted May 31, 2007 21:54
Tremona Garage in Southampton diagnosed the fault as being with the spark plugs. They asked me if the spark plugs in it were genuine Motorcraft ones. It turns out the spark plugs were replaced as part of the service and they used NGK plugs. The garage has now fitted genuine Motorcraft plugs in it and it now runs like a dream. Problem resolved!
I didnt know using geniune spark plugs was so important!!! Is this a known issue with ST220′s does anyone know? Tremona swore that you have to use geniune plugs! Just seems strange to me!
Posted June 01, 2007 06:15
I think all Ford engines run better with genuine motorcraft plugs unless you are using very high quality performance plugs.
Email from Ernest in Oxford 12/01/2008
Re you questions and comments on a misfiring ST220. I had a similar erratic running problem with my 2.5 V6 mondeo and it turned out to be the spark plug leads, not the plugs (which I changed - using motorcraft - without curing the problem). However, I had previously noticed that my car ran more economically when I fitted Motorcraft plugs as opposed to other types of plugs. I was doing about 40,000 miles per year so my mpg estimates were pretty accurate. There was an improvement of about 1.5 miles per gallon (ie better by this much using the Motorcraft plugs). I agree with the person who advised you that changing the plugs might have disturbed the plug leads in such a way that this induced the misfire. My misfire started after about 120,000 miles when I changed the plugs for the second time.
However, I also noticed that my fuel consumption was always better in the summer than in the winter (but the figures I quoted above still apply for summer and winter).
I now have an ST220 (from new) and I intend to use Motorcraft plugs when they are changed because they give better petrol consumption figures which matters when you do high mileages and pay for your own petrol. I have also noticed that fuel consumption figures drop by about 2 mpg in the winter (this was also the case when I drove Sierras before Mondeos existed).